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I call Alicia Kennedy, a Puerto Rico–based food and drink writer, to help me sort the Buffalo Bills AFC east division Champions 2020-2021 signatures shirt wheat from the chaff. She advises me to take a finer lens to the question of what’s sustainable. “I’d first examine the agricultural practices to see whether the agriculture is exhaustive or regenerative and leading to soil productivity.” She says I must consider the choice of crop, whether labor is being compensated properly, whether the water is being recycled or repurposed, whether the yeast is naturally occurring, and whether the spirit is being made at a rate and scale conducive to all the other conditions.
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